The Ender 3 marked my entry into the 3D-printing world, and I love it! The 3D printer has been a godsend! If you're also newbie and searching for advice, here's my brief take on the Ender 3. It's awesome! The Ender 3 arrives in pieces that you must assemble. Since it is essentially a robot, assembly can seem overwhelming at first, but if you take it one step at a time, you'll be printing in no time. I found the printed instructions accompanying the unit to be more sizzle than steak, but, fortunately there are several videos on YouTube that make assembly a breeze. Believe it or not, assembling the unit yourself is beneficial because it familiarizes you with the device. It will allow you to easily make the minor adjustments that 3D printers often require. My wife and I have found that 3D printing comes with somewhat of a steep learning curve, but it's fun. YouTube and websites such as "all3DP dot com" have proven themselves to be life savers. The most common adjustments you'll make while 3D printing is "bed leveling." In truth, though, you're not actually "leveling" the print bed, but rather you're ensuring that the print nozzle is uniformly distanced from the bed (the print surface) on all its 4 corners. The nozzle needs to be super close, too. ...not about an inch or two away from the print bed, but rather it needs to be no further than the thickness of a piece of paper. Crazy, huh? When my wife and I printed a test file provided by Creality (the manufacturer), we frankly sat mesmerized at the unit's precision. It was like staring into a campfire and getting lost in the flames. The nozzle just zipped back and forth across the print bed leaving tiny bits of corn-based "plastic" one layer at a time, and eventually (over time) created a cat/dog thingy. In search of more things to print, we settled on two websites with tons of 3D-printable files that are very often free to download. The websites are "thingiverse dot com" and "cults3d dot com". The latter site takes longer to load, but seems to have more options. Creality has one too, but I haven't really checked it out yet. It's important to note that the files you download from such websites are *.stl files, whereas the Ender 3 needs *.gcode files. To make the file conversion, we downloaded a piece of software called Cura. It appears to be the best (free) software on the market for "slicing" 3D files into *.gcode files. That too has a steep learning curve, complete with complicated settings. But fortunately there are lots of tutorials online along with settings you can copy from experts. I mostly rely on "all3DP dot com" for that. After a while, we decided to invent our own designs and then print them into existence. In my opinion, the cat's meow -- the best and easiest 3D design application -- is Fusion360. It has a limited free version for students and schools, but otherwise it's quite pricey. My wife then found free, open-sourced design software called FreeCAD. We love it, and haven't turned back since. The filament we prefer is PLA. In our experience, PLA produces little to no fumes and it's guilt-free because it's corn-based and biodegradable. It should be noted, though, that not all PLA is created equally. This is primarily because (according to what I've read) pigments affect the PLA in different ways. So, when I order PLA from Amazon, I always look for the PLA with the most and highest reviews. Then, I refer upon their temperature recommendations. Overall, we absolutely love the Ender 3. At under $200, it's extremely affordable, and the process of printing things into existence can be (in my experience) somehow transformative. And if you find yourself confused about something, take my advice by not wasting time by trying to figure it out for yourself. Just refer to the experts on any of the websites I mentioned so, later on, you can focus on things that really matter...like design. Note: the bearing on a little fan went out. So, I reached out to Comgrow, they got back to me immediately, and now a new fan is on the way. No fuss no muss. Finally, at the risk of getting to personal, I'm a disabled veteran who benefits from focusing on tangible things. The process of 3D printing has proven itself to be such a godsend in that regard, that I think the VA should seriously explore ways of getting more vets 3D printing. I hope this helped newbies like me. Happy printing!

I've only printed a few things so far but it's enough to give some good feedback. At this price point don't expect any frills. That said this bare bones printer performs great. First off from my pictures you'll notice I upgraded the print bed to glass. It's only an extra $12 at the time I purchased. I read some other info online that lead me to believe this would be more likely to be level and perform better. i don't regret it. It works great. My advice would be to take your time assembling this printer. Expect it to take about 4 hours, perhaps more. Make sure everything is tight and aligned properly in terms of the rollers, belts etc. Do not rely on the quick start guide or included instructions. Go out to Youtube and follow the assembly video. Pause it for each step. When you are done stay on Youtube. There is a "Complete beginner's guide" on there from an Australian creator that demonstrates using this exact model. I noticed his menus are a little different due to software changes but his leveling guide and calibration files work great. For being one of the cheapest printers you can get the performance is surprising. I'm very happy with the print quality. I love that I can use tools on Linux or Windows. You don't need to be plugged in as you can simply print from G code on the included micro SD card. The videos online can get you up and running quickly. Every tool needed to build and run the printer are in the box. Nice touch. There is a small amount of PLA material but you will want to order more right away. The included spool is small and really only enough for a couple test prints. If you are a beginner why spend more? This is the perfect first printer. Update: I thought I would add to my review now that I have had some time working with this printer. I've made a lot of improvements to the device I first received. The nice thing is most of the improvements are cheap or you can print them. First thing to note: I was having a lot of problems with printing anything large that took a bit of time. After a lot of digging I found the hotend shipped with the printer was (in my opinion) put together wrong. They either built it cold or inserted the nozzle before the heat break. Either way there was a gap that could not be fixed in the hotend. I bought a Creality spider hotend which is all metal. Way better and it works great. Add to that a BL Touch sensor for autoleveling the bed. Best addition ever. You still need to start with a level bed but it fixes all the little problems with uneven bed surfaces and stopped my extruder problems. While on the extruder. Calibrate your machine! Take the time to measure the output from your extruder. They use a generic setting from the factory. You NEED to set up this machine. Calibrate the extruder, the retraction distance, the nozzle temp for the filiment etc. Pay attention to the details and you will get great results. Really happy with this printer. It takes work but it's a fun project that leads to other projects, and for a beginner it's hard to beat. Some say you should buy higher end and avoid all the minor issues. I disagree. I think this has been a learning experience that prompted me to understand the machine. I think that basic knowledge of the process is important. Your mileage may vary.

Parem de comparar com a Bambu lab A1, essa entrega uma qualidade excelente também! E possibilidade de impressão com outros materiais também!

Funciona bien, el diseño de demostración que traen la impresora como predeterminada se llevó 1:40 hrs duracion sen finalizar el diseño; se uso el material de filamento que tambien viene con la impresora. Todo excelente. No se atoro, no se tiro, todo excelente y la estamos usando en una escuela.

Ótimo produto

out of the box the printer works great, and aside from bolting on the gantry, and plugging in some wires, is easier to get running than most paper printers it is a perfect printer if you if you want something affordable that will just print the power loss protection works great the filament runout switch works great, but probably should've been on the SE too the all metal hotend means you can print more exotic plastics (you might need to make a heated enclosure though) the 2 print cooling fans make slopes and overhangs easier to print build quality is amazing for the price it has a direct drive extruder, so you can print flexible filaments, and waste less time retracting filament the build surface and heated bed give very good adhesion, I haven't had any warping with PLA except when it was dusty, or when the bed needed to be remapped the magnetic build plate is very nice to have so you don't have to pry up larger prints with razor blades and scrapers the printer is nice to look at, which can't exactly be said for the Ender 3 V1 and its exposed power supply the motors are very quiet aside from sticking once during setup causing the printer to give an easily identified error code, the bed mapping probe works well the Z offset load cell is very nice to have, but it would be nicer if it was in the print head (if it was than there would be no need for a separate bed mapping probe) unfortunately the cooling fan for the control board stays on constantly, and the fans in general are quite loud ignore the following if you don't care about printing parts with abnormally tight tolerances, or you just really hate Creality Print you'll need Mainsail or Fluidd if you want to fine tune motor rotation distance (motor steps), with stock settings my X axis was about 0.75-0.5mm too large over 150mm, which is fine for most prints, but can make printed gears, bushings, etc bind up Creality Print does have a sloppy way to bypass this, in that you can adjust both the x and y axis thermal contraction offset, but most other slicers don't have this, since this is usually adjusted on the printer itself Creality print also lacks features like hole size compensation, and more experimental features like scarf jointed seams klipper printers use a controller similar to a raspberry pi to send instructions to a secondary board, so installing custom control software is a lot more involved than reflashing a marlin printer, *don't try it unless you know what you're doing*, there is documentation for installing Mainsail and Fluidd on the Creality github, but the commands listed didn't work for me, so I had to spend hours looking for a different tutorial, since info on the KE was quite scarce when I got it it would be nice if it came stock with both Mainsail and Fluidd preinstalled, since they don't interfere with anything, and are needed to adjust advanced settings and print wirelessly with other slicers if you're a beginner get this or the SE, they're both great if you want to fine tune your printer but absolutely don't want to mess around with ssh editors and stuff consider the SE, if you are good at following tutorials and want the extra features, get this

Play Video Es mi primera impresora 3D y estoy encantado con ella. Super facil de montar, super facil usarla, se calibra sola y imprime super bien. Muy recomendada si vas a inicarte en impresion 3D.